For most travellers, Dar es Salaam with its international airport is a convenient port of call.

From here, through a network of small reliable plane schedules and charters, vehicles or a train service, visitors have easy access to the more exotic destinations such as Zanzibar, Mafia and Pemba Islands and the game reserves of the south. ‘Dar’, as it is affectionately referred to, is a fascinating rabbit warren of a tropical port, often surprising the unwary wanderer with scenes of breathtaking beauty as it straddles one of the most important deep-water ports of the Indian Ocean.

In ‘Dar’, the main city hotels include the Royal Palm, Holiday Inn, New Africa Hotel and Kempinski Kilimanjaro Hotel. On the outskirts lies the Hotel Seacliff, an extremely well-positioned hotel that overlooks the Indian Ocean and is perfect for overnight stays. Please ask us for further information on these.

Away from the city, there are miles and miles of white sandy beaches, rocky coves and every water-sport imaginable. Here, we recommend three lovely retreats to relax at upon arrival into Tanzania, or following a southern safari. None provide the boating, diving or jet-skis of the north, but rather focus on gentle nature walks, kayaking, fishing and swimming. Ras Kutani also offer excellent horse-riding trips along deserted beaches and through local villages. Two or three nights are recommended as minimum stays here.

One hour’s drive north of ‘Dar’ you will come to the historic town of Bagamoyo. From near here, a short dhow trip brings you to Lazy Lagoon. The 12 large rustic bungalows are dotted along a deserted beach, with spectacular views of the ocean on your doorstep. It is also a super location to watch dhows make their journeys north and south past the lodge. This is a delightful retreat with excellent hospitality, a relaxed atmosphere and tasty food. Explore miles of sandy beaches and mangroves, take a dinghy or dhow ride, slip into the pool and then relax at a candlelit dinner on the beach with your toes in the sand.

Set on a crescent of white sandy beach, flanked by a freshwater lagoon and a coastal forest, RAs Kutani is approximately 35km south of Dar. There are just 12 stylish reed, makuti and bamboo cottages, so peace and tranquillity are assured. With long stretches of pristine beach and warm blue seas, this romantic hideaway is about total relaxation. Creature comforts have not been sacrificed either, for you will receive a first-class service, excellent food and the pampering you would expect from a classic bush retreat. For those feeling energetic, there are canoes and surfboards and some horses nearby.

The Old Boma is one of the grandest buildings on the southern Swahili coast with a delightful pool. Over 100 years old, the fort is beautifully restored into a comfortable hotel, while retaining its original features and charm. Surrounded by frangipani and flame trees, the hotel looks over the Indian Ocean. Some cultural experiences include local fishing, Swahili cooking, basic language lessons, town and vegetable/fish market tours and perhaps a snorkelling excursion to the Mnazi Bay. The six spacious bedrooms are furnished with hand-carved beds, Tinga Tinga paintings and other local handicrafts.